Back to Tallinn

We were sorry to leave our wonderful accommodations at Hotel Antonious in Tartu, but of course had to get back to Tallinn.  We took the very comfortable Lux Express bus for a comfortable 2 1/2 hour bus trip.  There is wi-fi, personal screen for movies.   

After checking into our hotel (conveniently located next door to the airport), we took a cab to Majasmokk in old town to meet Heili for coffee.  Fun to talk about our trip, geology, Heili's current dance and art projects.  Afterwords Don and went to complete our shopping -- dvd's and chocolate.  And then returned to our favorite old town restaurant, Pegasus.   Just as good as we remembered it. Our dinner with an appetizer of their house made seeded bread, which was amazing.  Great way to spend our last evening.  

0ut and about in southern Estonia

We began our tour of south Estonia at 9 am this morning, when our guide, Krista, picked us up from the hotel.   Without a rental car, we didn't think we could get to the half dozen sites we were intent on seeing, so employed Krista.  

We headed south out of Tartu, keeping in eye on the sky.  We wanted to make sure to reach Suur Muna Ma'gi (Big Egg Mountain) ahead of any rain.  This mountain is in the hilly Haanja natural area, in the area of Estonian where "Vo'ru kiel" is spoken instead of the standard northern Estonian.  On the way we saw roller-skiiers staying in condition, skating up and down the rolling landscape.  A common summer time sight here.    The drive to Suur Munama'gi was well worth it -- fresh breezy air, a view to die for, and just being on the highest point in all the Baltics(though it is not so high....).  

Then on to Setomaa, at least the Estonian side of it.  2/3 or more is now on the Russian side of the border, although it is possible for Seto living there to get visas to come see family or celebrate special days, like the choosing of a new Seto king which happens this Saturday.   The word Seto is said to come from the Estonian, "ei see, ei too" meaning not Estonian, not Russian.   They are a people to themselves.  Finno-ugric in origin and language, eastern orthodox in faith.     We had an interesting, tasty lunch in Obinitsa that included a cauliflower with so'ir cheese dish we liked very much, and a rull biskveet cake made with rye flour.    After lunch, it was on to the Seto museum.

Still in the Seto kingdom, we stopped at the Piusa sand caves, which aren't natural but a result of mining the sand to make glassware.   The caves are now a place for the largest bat colony in northern Europe.  About 5000 bats, 5 species hibernate there.  The old quarry is also a restoration site for a rare lizard and rare newt. The only clay to be found in Estonia is also nearby, so there are a few craft potters in the area too.

Driving back we entered Tartu from a direction allowing us to see many of the new university, hospital and shopping center buildings.   Tartu  seems to be in some sort of growth spurt.   

By the time we got back to our hotel it was 7:30 pm!   

Family, friends, and pouring rain

This morning we left the guest house that, after four days, was beginning to seem like home.  Driving away we caught the light-colored fur of a fox kit.  Very cool.    We were on our way to the Kohvik Viljandi where we were to meet with my father's older brother's grandson Ju'ri for the first time.  Such a great visit we had with coursins Ju'ri and Ain.   Until we made contact, they had no idea we existed and vice versa.  We promised to add our family to Genii, and to scan photos and documents.  Next time we are in Viljandi, they will show us buildings important to our family's story.   Meanwhile, they walked us through who was who among the descents of Juhan, spoke about what had happened to the family "talu", and shared many photos of family.    My cousin Ju'ri reminds me very much of my father.

Our visit had to end so we could catch our bus to Tartu.  By then it was starting to rain.  It rained as we  rode to Tartu.  Even more as we checked into our hotel room and kicked back a bit, and then even more than that as we took a cab to Maie's.   For Californians, this was more rain than we'd seen in years.

What a warm and wonderful visit we had with Maie and her friend Ku'lli.  Maie had made a typical and tasty Estonian dinner for us, and we chatted about all kinds of things.  When the rain finally let up, she and Ku'lli took us for a drive to see local sights, including a memorable stop on the shores of Lake Peipsi.   We talked about her impressions of the U.S., and our impressions of Estonia, as well as the archetypical Estonian story of families who had been broken up.  These families are still being put back together.    Both Maie's parents and her husband's parents were sent to Siberia, where the couple's each had met and married, and where Maia and her husband were born.   Both families later were able to return to Estonia.   

We'll keep our fingers crossed for good weather tomorrow for our trip to the Piusa caves and Setomaa.

Music festival wraps up

Today(Sunday) was already the last day of this 4 day festival, and our last concert was Curly Strings.   What a fantastic, collaborative atmosphere pervades this festival.  Just about every artist invites another to join them on stage, together the bands trysomething new and wonderful.  Really hard to pick a favorite -- the music ranged from meditative concerts performed in the really old st john's church to wildly, crowd pleasing, toe tapping pieces played in one of the two venues that are surrounded by castle ruins.   Today, during the Curly Strings concert, it began to pour.   The crowd was unfazed and just danced more wildly.   

Another big highlight was meeting with Maarja and Tiina this morning, who shared geneological data with us about the Reisenberg family.  We went for a walk with them to Viljandi's famous water tower, where we climbed to the top, and then it was on to the Viljandi city hall and museum.  The whirlwind tour ended with a visit to the coffeehouse Viljandi on Lossi street.   Viljandi has an amazing history, and strong commitment to traditional arts and cultural education, but is still worried that there are no longer any industries here.  Population of this little city that was founded in 1283, is flat or decreasing. 

 This is our last evening at the guesthouse, and so have decided to BBQ something and enjoy this sweet space, with its nesting swallows and bog plants.  We are also drying out from getting so drenched at today's concert.  

A few other highlights of our guesthouse stay: seeing a stork catch a mouse and then, in order to take the heavy load up to its nest, back up to get a running start for take off.  Very cool.   Also, because the house had no coffee filters, learning to make great "cowboy coffee."  Amazing what you can do with just a pot and good instructions from the internet.

Thats it for now.

Viljandi Folk Music Festival 2016 - Viljandi, Estonia

We are very much behind on this trip's blog, but i will try to catch us up.   We arrived in Estonia last Wednesday, after a smooth trip.   Travel time passed quickly, as we were watching the Democratic convention!   

 Estonia feels like a second home these days.   We did have one unpleasant surprise.  We were going to rent a car, but that is no longer allowed without an international driver's license.  Yikes,   We had a great stay at the st petersberg hotel in Tallinn's old town (wonderful breakfast), and tried other car rental companies but eventually exhausted options.  The next morning we gave Estonia's bus sysrem a try -- had a comfortable, incredibly inexpensive bus trip to Viljandi.   We llinked up with the owner of the guesthouse we would be renting, who was kindly able to (through a friend) find us a car to loan for a few days so we could get back and forth from our house and the music festival.  

The guesthouse is very Estonian-complete with a sauna, a pair of nesting storks, a special stone out front.  It also has a little pond out front and a forest nearby, plus some pesky flies.   We are amazed at how inexpensive food is --even large bottles of imported olive oil are just $3 dollars or so.  A bag of groceries--$10 to $12.  

Now on to the music festival, which feels like a cross between the Renaissance fair and MetsaUlikool (Estonian cultural program in canada).  The music is great, the audiences appreciative.  We have heard some amazing stuff.  All of the groups perform varients of traditional music.  Some Is Estonian (as Viljandi is known for its Traditional Arts Center), but there are music groups from all over the world.  I will write more about the festival tomorrow.

One non-festival highlight was finding the cemetary plot where my Reiseberg forbarers are buried.  Strange to see it with my own eyes.   More on this too.