We headed south out of Tartu, keeping in eye on the sky. We wanted to make sure to reach Suur Muna Ma'gi (Big Egg Mountain) ahead of any rain. This mountain is in the hilly Haanja natural area, in the area of Estonian where "Vo'ru kiel" is spoken instead of the standard northern Estonian. On the way we saw roller-skiiers staying in condition, skating up and down the rolling landscape. A common summer time sight here. The drive to Suur Munama'gi was well worth it -- fresh breezy air, a view to die for, and just being on the highest point in all the Baltics(though it is not so high....).
Then on to Setomaa, at least the Estonian side of it. 2/3 or more is now on the Russian side of the border, although it is possible for Seto living there to get visas to come see family or celebrate special days, like the choosing of a new Seto king which happens this Saturday. The word Seto is said to come from the Estonian, "ei see, ei too" meaning not Estonian, not Russian. They are a people to themselves. Finno-ugric in origin and language, eastern orthodox in faith. We had an interesting, tasty lunch in Obinitsa that included a cauliflower with so'ir cheese dish we liked very much, and a rull biskveet cake made with rye flour. After lunch, it was on to the Seto museum.
Still in the Seto kingdom, we stopped at the Piusa sand caves, which aren't natural but a result of mining the sand to make glassware. The caves are now a place for the largest bat colony in northern Europe. About 5000 bats, 5 species hibernate there. The old quarry is also a restoration site for a rare lizard and rare newt. The only clay to be found in Estonia is also nearby, so there are a few craft potters in the area too.
Driving back we entered Tartu from a direction allowing us to see many of the new university, hospital and shopping center buildings. Tartu seems to be in some sort of growth spurt.
By the time we got back to our hotel it was 7:30 pm!
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